This bastide town is more than 750 years old, and boasts one of the best markets in France. It's held every Saturday and attracts visitors from across the region.
There's wonderful local produce, fish and shellfish from the coast including succulent oysters, cheeses from around the Dordogne, pates and sausages, preserves, local wine, meat and poultry and crusty traditional bread, as well as clothing, books, antiques, fabrics and art. The main roads in the town are closed to traffic for most of the day.
The town has a number of restaurants of varying prices:
The Globetrotter is on the main square, Place Gambetta, less than a minute's walk from the apartment. It has a pleasant outdoor eating area as well as a cosy interior. It's a great place for a beer or glass of wine, the daily specials are good value, and salads and pizzas generous.
For a more authentic French experience, head for Le Comptoir des Sports on Place du Marche. It has a large fireplace inside, and pleasant seating outside.
Cafe Culture on market day
Lucetti on Rue Victor Hugo offers decent pizzas and a French take on Italian staples.
For special occasions, Au Fil de l'Eau can't be beaten. It's tucked under the bridge just inside Porte Ste Foy and has superb fare.
Thursday evenings in July and August see trestle tables set up in the square behind the library, on rue Denfert Rochereau, for a producer's market. Buy a bottle of wine, make a choice between oysters, snails, steaks, magret de canard (duck breast), foie gras, breads and cheeses and grab a seat. There's a great village atmosphere and always music. Torchlit processions to discover the town start from here as soon as it's dark.
